🔗 Share this article

An Expert Colorist

Hair Color Expert based in the West Coast who excels at grey hair. Among his clientele are celebrated actors and Andie MacDowell.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

My top pick is a gentle drying cloth, or even a gentle tee to dry your hair. It's often overlooked how much damage a regular bath towel can do, especially to silver or chemically treated hair. This minor adjustment can really minimize flyaways and damage. Another affordable staple is a large-gap comb, to use in the shower. It safeguards your strands while detangling and helps preserve the strength of the hair shafts, notably following coloring.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A top-tier thermal appliance – ceramic or tourmaline, with precise heat settings. Grey and blonde hair can yellow or burn easily without the proper tool.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

Self-applied color lifting. Internet videos often simplify it, but the truth is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients cause irreversible harm, snap their strands or end up with uneven tones that are nearly impossible to correct. I also don’t recommend chemical straightening processes on bleached or silver hair. Such treatments are often overly harsh for weakened hair and can cause lasting harm or color changes.

What frequent error do you observe?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their hair type or colour. Certain clients overapply violet-based cleansers until their lightened locks looks flat and dull. Others rely too much on strengthening conditioners and end up with rigid, fragile strands. The other major issue is heat styling without protection. When applying styling appliances without a defensive spray or cream, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. For direct application, minoxidil is highly proven. I often suggest scalp formulas with active ingredients to boost blood flow and aid in hair growth. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps eliminate impurities and allows treatments to work more effectively. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown notable improvements. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by correcting endocrine issues, stress and nutritional deficiencies.

For people looking for something more advanced, blood-derived therapies – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be effective. Still, my advice is to getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

---

Anabel Kingsley

Follicle Expert and brand president of Philip Kingsley services and items for shedding.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will snip damaged ends myself fortnightly to preserve strand health, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

What affordable find is essential?

Building fibers are truly impressive if you have see-through sections. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it virtually undetectable. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had a lot of hair fall – and also now while experiencing some considerable hair loss after having a severe illness recently. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. When dealing with temporary hair loss, known as TE, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the optimal outcomes. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It's ineffective. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they provide similarly low results.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Hardly anyone is biotin deficient, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can affect thyroid test results.

What blunder stands out often?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the primary purpose of washing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the reverse is correct – notably in cases of dandruff, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. When sebum remains on the skin, they decompose and cause irritation.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a careful compromise. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it is unlikely to cause damage.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

With telogen effluvium, investigation is key. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will improve spontaneously. Sometimes, hormonal problems or dietary gaps are responsible – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus